Cartagena is the kind of city you visit to eat, drink, and literally do nothing. With a population of nearly 1 million, it’s a large city, yet few visitors stray far from the beaten path. And honestly? There’s little need to for most of them. If in a rush, most touristic sites of Cartagena can be seen in a day or two. However, the best way to experience it is to take your time, stroll through the streets, and absorb its energy.

With an average temperature of 88F with high humidity, Cartagena is sultry. A good plan is to get up early and experience it before the hustle and bustle. By midday, the sun will be strong and beating down on you, so it’s advisable to get some shade and rest during this time. You’ll want to pace yourself for nightfall, when the temperature cools and the city comes alive.

Neighborhoods in Cartagena

There are three main sections of the city where tourists stay: the Old City, Getsemaní, and Bocagrande.

The Old City consists of colonial buildings dating back to the 1600 and 1700s, surrounded by fortified walls. If you’ve ever visited El Morro in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, imagine being able to circumnavigate an entire neighborhood walking along those walls. That’s pretty much the Old City (La Ciudad Amurallada.) The Old City is broken up into two smaller sections: El Centro and San Diego, though there’s not a large distinction, as they’re both within the walls. While you can get a deal, hotels here are as expensive as they are elegant. Set in old homes with lush courtyards, many even have swimming pools.

Just outside the Old City is Matuna, a buffer zone between the well-heeled Ciudad Amurallada and Getsemaní, a vibrant working class neighborhood to the south. Aside from a few taller government buildings and banks, it’s made up of narrow streets that draw a crowd during the day. There’s not much to see here, per se, but you’ll inevitably pass through it getting from one side to the other.

Over a decade ago, Getsemaní was a neighborhood of colorful but crumbling buildings and tourists were warned not to venture to far after dark. The neighborhood has seen a renaissance, with new restaurants, bars, and hotels popping up all the time. Unlike the Old City, where hotels can cost a pretty penny, Getsemaní has an abundance of hostels and budget-friendly hotels. Locals and tourists can be seen partying in the streets together.

Bocagrande is to the southwest of the Old City. Imagine the Miami or Panama City skyline, and you have a good idea of what Bocagrande looks like from afar. Here, multinational hotels and modern high-rise condos dominate the landscape. You’ll find air conditioned malls and cinemas, as well as bar and restaurants. Located on a peninsula, Bocagrande does have beaches, though not the blue water you may be seeking.

WhERE I Stayed

Traditionally, tourists stayed either in the charming Old City or the modern Bocagrande peninsula. Let’s be clear: even converting US dollars to Colombian pesos, Cartagena isn’t cheap. Let me rephrase that — it’s cheap in comparison to New York, where I’m from, or Western Europe. It’s not especially cheap compared to most of Latin America or even Bogotá, the capital of Colombia. Still, good deals can be had.

Bocagrande might remind you of the Miami or Panama City skylines with its towering white condos and hotels. Lots of people stay there because it reminds them of Caribbean resorts. However, if you’re a romantic or architecture nut, you’re going to want to splurge on the Old City. Most of these buildings were formerly private homes and are quaint, with lavish courtyards boasting tropical gardens, elegant chandeliers and architectural detail — many even have pools.

Because you’re in the midst of all the action, you’re going to pay for that. If you can swing it, I’d recommend treating yourself to one of the gorgeous hotels in the center. You may be surprised to learn that there are a few hostels in the Old City, some of which are very beautiful. I’m frugal, so when I do, I stay at Hotel El Viajero Centro, a more budget and plain option, or in a hostel. I liked Hostal Boutique Casa Escallón (a now defunct hostel), that was just outside the walls. It even had a small pool and for under $40 a night, you couldn’t beat it.

While on the topic…over the past few years, Getsemaní has turned into a backpackers haven and affordable option for those who love the candy colored buildings and Caribbean charm without the price tag. Hostels and boutique hotels have cropped up all over the place. Some of the city’s liveliest nightlife, like Café Havana of Hilary Clinton fame, Bazurto Social Club, and Quiebra Canto – a popular dance club that also has a location in Bogotá – are located here.

I stayed at La Artillería Cartagena, a newish boutique hotel in a three-story colonial style building complete with a rooftop swimming pool. The hotel is on Calle 31, close enough to the main drag, Carrera 10 but far enough away  to avoid the noise. Convenience and comfort at a good price is paramount to me, so this fit the bill. I’ve also stayed at El Arsenal Hostel Boutique, which is a bit outside of the hustle and bustle of Getsemaní, but solid nonetheless.

Where to Eat and Drink

I’m going to preface this section but saying that I am not a nightclub kind of person. That said, I do like to hear good music and throw back a few drinks. For strong, delicious drinks and good music – especially of Salsa, Reggaeton, Cumbia, or Champeta are your thing – it doesn’t get much better than Old Town or Getsemaní. There’s something going on everywhere. As a general rule, the crowd is a bit older and monied in the walled in city than Getsemaní (though this is obviously a generalization.)

The food you’ll find ranges from fast food and things for a more North American palate (I’m looking at you, Bocagrande) to Spanish/French/Italian cuisine to typical
costeño fare: fresh fried fish (red snapper is the best!) with a side of coconut rice and patacones – salty fried green plantains known as tostones in much of the Caribbean Latin America. But even where you get your fried fish will depend greatly. I’ve had wonderful meals at La Catedral, a stylish restaurant on a quiet street and an equally great one for at Restaurante Bar Totopo, a barebones, no nonsense place where mainly Colombians go.

Carrera 10 is a pretty jumping street in Getsemaní where you’ll find bakeries pumping out fragant guayaba y queso bread in the morning for breakfast as well as places to go for dinner and drinks. Stateside, smoothie bowls and rice bowls are all the rage. Caminante Cartagena Street Kitchen, a tiny, modern restaurant, utilizes this concept to introduce typical Colombian food in an attractive, innovative way. They also sell things like arepas and empanadas. As I said, the place can get pretty tight –  sit by the big windows to get some air and people watch.

One common thing you’ll find in all over Colombia, as well as other parts of Latin America and the Caribbean, are businesses like restaurants and stores that are on the ground level of people’s houses. One great example of this is Oshedi Cocktails, where we went two nights in a row. It literally looks like someone’s kitchen, but the drinks are amazing! You can get a simple rum and coke or a piña colada, but the real real draw are the mojitos and margaritas made of fresh fruits like lulo, maracuyá (passionfruit), coconut, and  mango, among others.

Thinking about doing a two-fer — Cartagena and Bogotá? Read my guide.