Lessons From 140+ Flights and 33 Countries

I’ve taken over 140 flights, been to four continents, have had three passports, and visited 33 countries (though, that last one’s debatable, depending on who you ask.)

If novice travelers are prone to making faux pas due to lack of experience, I’d argue seasoned travelers sometimes take foolish risks because of overconfidence or getting too comfortable. One must always remain alert when traveling, no matter how much of a veteran you consider yourself. Bocas del Toro taught me that.

My Arrival in Panama City and First Impressions

Nikon DSLR camera? Check. iPhone 4? Check. Riding from the airport into Panama City on the bus, I’m anxious to arrive and start snapping away. My camera used to be in my bag wherever I went. It was commonplace to arrive home from a weekend jaunt with 1,000 new photos. My external hard drive board nearly 100,000 – and I’m not exaggerating. My favorite subject matters were architecture, food, and botany.

An hour later, I was found myself on a rickety rainbow-colored bus – a diablo rojo, as the locals called them. I paid the equivalent of around a quarter and found a seat. Parts of the floor were so rusted out that you could see the street beneath us. I hopped off at the foot of Cerro Ancón.

Exploring Cerro Ancón: Urban Jungle and Stunning Views

Cerro Ancón is an urban nature reserve on top of a hill overlooking the city. The sudden transition from choking on exhaust fumes to being surrounded by tropical forest is stunning. An unfamiliar animal crosses my path, which I’ll later learn is an agouti. Click. They weren’t visible but there are sloths and monkeys too. You might see a colorful bird fly overhead – don’t forget to get a picture. Click. You’ll recognize some of the plants from the rainforest exhibit at the botanical garden:  birds of paradise, heliconias, bananas – click.

The view of the city from up here is spectacular. The juxtaposition between the verdant forest and the chaos of the city below is awe inspiring. At the right angle, you can even see the canal – don’t forget to get that photo. I can’t wait to show these see my friends and family, you think.

Journey to Bocas del Toro: From City Chaos to Island Calm

Up until that point, I’d never experienced such steamy humidity. I was glad to board an air conditioned overnight bus to Almirante, a village near the Costa Rican border, where I’d need to catch the ferry to Bocas del Toro the next morning. Bocas del Toro is an archipelago off mainland Panama known for its pristine, secluded beaches, Antillean culture, and laid-back vibes. Though Panama City was nice to explore, after a day of travel by plane, bus, and boat, my body craved relaxation.

The ferry, as it turned out, was more of a small speed boat – a lancha, for my Colombians. We soon reached our destination, Isla Colón, the largest of the Bocas del Toro island chain. The water around the docks was a disappointing murky brown, not the clear turquoise I’d dreamed of. The beaches, I’d learn, were on the other side of the island.

Finding a Place to Stay on Isla Colón

This was back during the time I’d buy a plane ticket somewhere, land, and play it by ear; I didn’t have a hotel reservation. After walking a few blocks, I happened upon Hostel Heike, inquiring about a room. Sure enough, they had a vacancy and I dumped my belongings off in my room.

We’d left Panama City around 9:00pm the previous evening and made the ten hour trip, so it was still quite early. Determined to go to the beach, I soon learned several other guests had the same idea. As luck would have it, a staff member agreed to drive us to and from Bocas del Drago –one of the best beaches on the island – for a small fee. He dropped us off and told us to meet him at the same spot at 5:00pm.

A Day at Bocas del Drago and Starfish Beach

Of course I brought my bag with my camera to document the experience. Unlike most of the beaches I’d been to that were usually crowded, this Bocas del Drago was sparsely occupied. There was a dock leading out to a thatched overwater hut, like the ones you see in photos of Tahiti and Fiji, and I had it all to myself. Click.

The shore revealed a backdrop of thick jungle, with palms jutting out over beach. A few open air restaurants dotted the coast and finally, a small stream spilling out into the sea, lined by mangroves. I’d made it to Starfish Beach. As you may have imagined, the beach’s namesake and claim to fame is its dinner plate-sized starfish, which line the ocean bottom.

Solitude, Starfish, and the Magic of Quiet Travel Moments

The air was still and except for the birds and other creatures in the forest, it was completely quiet. It was just me and my thoughts. The water was smooth like glass and still. As I waded in the stream, I saw little fish swimming around my legs and crabs crawling about. It was one of those travel moments you don’t want to end. Across the water, I could see another landmass and wondered how long it would take to swim there. If I’m honest, I was documenting the moment as much as I was experiencing it, as I often did.

Later, as I waited for the return ride, I sat at one of the restaurants and sipped on one of the tastiest piña coladas I’ve ever had in my life. Since arriving in Panama, there wasn’t a minute where I wasn’t visiting somewhere new or on a bus headed somewhere. Between Panama City and Bocas, the DSLR and iPhone, there were easily already a few hundred photos. I couldn’t wait to get on my computer back home to review the shots.

My husband has often accused me of being incapable of ever truly relaxing, even on vacation. My days are jam packed  with bus and boat adventures, local food, and aimless wandering. I can relax when I’m dead. My goal is to see as much as I can with my time constraints. That said, you shouldn’t be surprised that I was already plotting my next moves. These were the days when I used to tote my Lonely Planet and Rough Guide books on my exploits. Checking my notes, What better way to spend a vacation than island hopping? I thought.

Island Hopping in Bocas del Toro: Planning the Next Adventure

The next day, I headed back to the docks and hopped a water taxi to Isla Bastimentos. I’d read about Wizard Beach, a twenty minute hike via a jungle trail. Isla Colón was small, but had paved streets, multi-story buildings, and a town square. In contrast, Bastimentos relied on paths and narrow streets reaching only up to a point. Unsure of where the trailhead to Wizard Beach began, I approached a few local men, who warned me to be cautious, as there’d been a few robberies along the path. Young, almost 5’9”, athletic, and street-smart – or so I thought – I was undeterred.

Hiking to Wizard Beach on Isla Bastimentos

It had recently rained and the trail was extra muddy. At a few points, my shoes got stuck, causing me to fall. My intuition was telling me this was a foolish idea, but but I was almost there – besides, it was too late to turn around. Approaching the beach, I spotted a man in the woods in the distance, but paid him little mind. That decision would haunt me.

The trail opened up onto a wide beach. Looking around, there was only one other person, a European in his thirties, who was sunbathing and oblivious to the fact that he had company. Apprehensive about leaving my person effects in plain sight, I found a tree about thirty feet from the shore. Observing my surroundings, I placed my bag on a high branch, which contained my phone, camera, keys, and cash. Not wanting to lose or break them, I hung my glasses on the branch next to it. Thinking back, the sunbather was in his own world and not interested in stealing my stuff; I could have left my stuff on the sand, undisturbed.

The water looked rough. I dipped my foot in and recoiled from the bitter cold water, the waves crashing against me. This isn’t a smart idea, I thought. Then again, none of this was well advised. If I get smacked down by a wave or carried out to sea by a strong current, nobody is even going to know. Defeated but knowing I’d made the right decision, I walked back toward the tree.

A Risky Decision That Changed My Travel Mindset

Ever forget where you parked? At first, I thought maybe I’d misjudged where the tree was and doubled back to see if maybe I was mistaken. I spotted my bag, though it was clear it had been ransacked – and where were my glasses? My stomach sunk. My iPhone, keys, cash, and camera – containing hundreds of images at this point – were gone. Glancing in the other direction, the sunbather was unfazed and none the wiser to what was unfolding.

As I started back onto the trail, it occurred to me that the guy I’d clocked in the woods was watching me and waited until my back was turned to pounce. In a panicked state, I waded through the mud, often falling, and made my way back to the village.

Once there, I recognized the two men who’d given me directions earlier and told them what happened, as a small crowd of tourists began to form around us. They ushered me to the minuscule police station (yards away), where’d I explained in Spanish what had occurred. Taking my report, the police officer added that this type of incident has unfortunately become common place there.

“There are a few men who we’ve busted before for this kind of theft,” taking out a small book. “I’m going to show you some photos. Let me know if any of these men look familiar.”

The book was filled with mugshots. I described the man I’d spotted in the woods, but it was from a distance and aside from a general appearance, it was impossible to say if any of these men in the photos were him. I thanked the officer, who gave me the police report, and walked back towards the ferry dock. Great, they took all of my money, I thought, so I’d have to depend on the kindness of strangers to get back to Isla Colón. Two gentleman, a local man and a Spaniard, who’d become a fixture in Bocas, agreed to take me back.

Internet Cafés, Kind Strangers, and Making the Best of a Bad Situation

Time was of the essence, so once back to shore, I recalled that I’d seen an internet café. I needed to get in touch with my mother and friends back home, as I needed to arrange to get a new set of house keys, which had also been stolen. Embarrassed, I explained my situation and earned the sympathy of the café employee who felt sorry for me and let me use a computer. In fact, one of them told me that a guy had passed by about 20 minutes prior, peddling a used iPhone. But he was long gone, as were my hopes of ever recovering my belongings.

Back at the hostel, upon hearing of my misfortune, the friendly chiriquiana front desk clerk promptly replaced my room key and offered words of support. Luckily, I knew better than to put all my eggs in one basket, so my credit and debit cards were waiting for me in my room, which I used to retrieve more cash from the ATM. The truth was, the theft had put a damper on my experience, which I decided to cut short. It was barely late afternoon, so I booked myself an early morning flight back to Panama City.

Replacing My Lost Camera and Rediscovering Panama Through the Lens

The next morning, I dragged myself to the tiny airport (so small get you could only buy directly from the airline’s website, as it won’t come up on aggregate sites.) We made our way into the tarmac and boarded the diminutive propeller plane. 45 minutes later, we landed at Panama City’s Albrook Airport, conveniently located on the same block as the bus station and shopping mall. Suddenly I had an idea.

Never one to get bogged down by lavish souvenirs, I had little use for duty-free shops. However, in a guide I’d gotten at the bus station a few days prior, I read that Panama City had an entire duty-free shopping mall in Amador. What if I bought a cheap point and shoot camera? And that’s exactly what I did. It was a metallic red Canon and took AA batteries. I also bought a rechargeable battery charger so I’d be fully equipped. With the few days I had left in Panama, I was determined to put my mishap behind me to enjoy what remained of my vacation.

Walking back over the scenic Amador Causeway was the perfect opportunity to test out my new camera. The shots I got of the Panama City skyline and bay were stunning.

From Lost Photos to New Memories: Capturing Panama’s Nature With a Canon

Panama City’s Metropolitan Natural Park was also on my bucket list, another golden opportunity to flex my photography muscles. Unlike Cerro Ancón, which is essentially a hill top and free, the park charges a small entrance fee. There, you’ll find clearly marked trails leading into the forest, offering panoramic views of the city. Click. The foliage creates a thick canopy over the trails, making it feel like you were in the rainforest – you know I’ve got photos galore to prove it.

Along with the lesson of never letting my guard down even for five minutes when traveling. I also learned another valuable lesson: I really liked Canons better than Nikons. Over 15 years later, every camera I’ve bought since has been a Canon. It still pains me sometimes to think of all the splendid memories I’d lost on that trip. That cheap point and shoot helped me build new ones.