Céad Míle Fáilte: My Irish New York

St. Brigid's Cross

The St. Brigid’s cross that adorns my wall

This Thursday, the country’s largest According to the Census Bureau, Irish-Americans are the second largest ethnic group in the United States with New York being one of four states with the highest percentage of Americans claiming Irish heritage. In fact, New York City is home to one of the largest Irish populations outside of the Emerald Isle itself. According to a recent article, New York City ranks #3 of 2022’s Most Irish Cities in the United States. You can include me in that figure.

Skibbereen

Colorful buildings in the center of Skibbereen, Ireland, my family’s hometown.

My grandfather was from a small village, Skibbereen, Though the Irish aren’t emigrating to the United States at the rate they once were, there are still a few enclaves in and around New York City.

Sean Og's

A block in Woodlawn fashioned to look like a typical Irish building

Woodside, Queens

The 7 subway line has long been crowned “The International Express”, each station representing a different culture or region of the world. The 61st Street elevated station runs through the heart of Like most Irish neighborhoods, our numbers have dwindled over the past few decades, but we’ve definitely left our mark.

At one point many years ago, I briefly lived in Woodside, where the supers of my building were a young couple from Derry, in Northern Ireland (notice I wrote Derry, not Londonderry – without going off on a political tangent, here’s why.) She was a bartender and he was a construction worker, two jobs many young Irish take upon arriving in New York. He was also a talented artist, who painted a gorgeous mural on the side of Sean Og’s Bar, a tribute to September 11th. He also, I later found out, worked with stained glass and made beautiful window ornaments.

Sean Og's Bar

You can’t miss Sean Og’s façade, reminiscent of a typical Irish village bar

Sean Og’s 

This bar is just down the block from Roosevelt Avenue and you really can’t miss it with its brightly painted exterior, reminiscent of Ireland itself. Inside, there’s a long bar with seating in back and a library lining the walls near the ceiling of its cavernous dining room. They have a decent selection of draft beers, as well as a menu featuring Irish comfort food, like chicken curry, shepherd’s pie, and bangers and mash (sausage and mashed potatoes.)

Sean Og’s
60-02 Woodside Avenue
Woodside, NY 11377
Donovan’s

If you’ve ever lived in Queens, you know that they’ve won awards over the years for the best burger. Whether they do or not is subjective, but you haven’t really experienced Woodside if you’ve never been to Donovan’s. They’ve been around since 1966 and while it’s much more Irish-American than Irish these days, stopping off here does bring you back in time. What to order? Take the burger and you can tell me what you think in the comments!

Donovan’s
57-24 Roosevelt Avenue
Woodside, NY 11377
https://donovansny.com/

Fun fact: Ireland has two official languages, English and Irish. Contrary to popular belief that Irish is a “dead language”, there are three regions where it’s spoken as a first language, called the Midtown, Manhattan

Lots of New Yorkers avoid Times Square at all costs. That said, if you do find yourself in the area, there are a number of Irish bars to kill some time in. You know your when you find your bartender off-duty enjoying a pint in Woodlawn, where he goes home to at night. True story.

Perfect Pint

Guinness is good for you!

The Perfect Pint

There are actually two on 45th Street, one off Times Square and the other on the eastside. When I’m passing through, I like to pop into the one on West 45th Street. Naturally, its location makes it ideal for both tourists and people stopping in for a round before catching a Metro-North or LIRR train. Pre-COVID, the place got crowded on a Friday or Saturday night. No worries though, this place has four floors – that’s right, you can drink at the main bar, go upstairs for a quieter dining room, or even reserve a room for a party. I’ve had a few of my birthdays here. The staff is friendly and the food is always superb.

Perfect Pint
123 West 45th Street
New York, NY 10036
https://www.theperfectpintnyc.com/

Connlly's

The view from the rooftop bar

Connolly’s

Like Perfect Pint, there are two locations: one on West 45th Street and another on East 47th Street. I prefer the 45th Street location, which is – surprise! – right next to Perfect Pint. On the nights that Perfect Pint became too crowded, the staff would work with Connolly’s to seat the spillover. Connolly’s is solid in its own right and they have live music several times a month. Hang around the Irish circuit and you’ll begin to recognize East Durham.

Connolly’s
121 West 45th Street
New York, NY 10036
https://www.connollyspubandrestaurant.com/

Welcome to Woodlawn

Welcome to Woodlawn, painted on the side of a Katonah Avenue business

Woodlawn, The Bronx /Mclean Avenue, Yonkers

At the end of the number 4 subway line, you’ll find Woodlawn station. A local’s tip: despite the signage, it’s not actually Woodlawn – it’s Tayto

Tayto, Irish potato chips sold at a store in Woodlawn

The real Woodlawn Cemetery. Like Woodside, it too is changing and not quite as Irish as it once was, though the influence is unmistakable. The main drag, This is a close-knit community where if you hang around long enough, you’ll soon recognize people. When an Irish person here is diagnosed with cancer or is in a Full Irish

A full Irish breakfast I devoured on a trip to Ireland

Rambling House

Heading out to Rambling for a pint (or a few) and a bite to eat is a way of life for people from around this legendary bar and grill. I spent many a Friday and Saturday night taking the Bx34 bus up here to meet up with friends in my mid-twenties. You can sit at the bar and chat about sports (or the next fundraiser!) or get a booth for a more intimate feel. If you come with an appetite, order the Irish Breakfast, a meat-heavy platter that’s tasty at any time of day. When the waitress comes to your table with a basket, it’ll often be full of mini Irish soda breads. On a lucky night, you may catch a seisiún here – – of http://www.ramblinghousenyc.com/

Corned beef

Corned beef and cabbage, not a true Irish meal. Read more to find out why!

You’ll notice “Irish bacon” on the menu of many Irish bars. What is it? It’s cut more broadly, is pink, and is similar to Canadian bacon, not the crispy, narrow strips Americans are used to. While American bacon is typically made of pork belly, the Irish equivalent is from the Emerald Mile

The sign at the Yonkers/Bronx border