On the Path to the North Coast: Unveiling Jamaica’s Transport Enigma

I always feel like I can read a bunch of guidebooks and blogs about a destination, yet few offer the level of detail needed about public transportation. Not everybody wishes to rent a car and the transportation networks of smaller countries are often an enigma until you experience them for yourself. I’ve become very skilled and resourceful at traveling without a car.

I studied the Knutsford Express website, the country’s major bus company, and figured out how we would get to the north coast where most of the tourism is. We purchased two roundtrip tickets to Knutsford’s Drax Hall bus station, a short drive from Ocho Rios (apparently, some bus stations closed temporarily due to COVID and have not yet reopened, including the actual Ocho Rios station). We paid approximately $16.50 each way for the ticket.

The bus was comfortable, clean, and left Kingston on time. For those who don’t know, Jamaica has a fairly new highway, shortening the ride to under two hours, with a brief stop in Angels (outside Spanish Town) before a straight shot to Drax Hall. Once there, we asked a friendly security guard where we could find one of the minibuses — or coasters  — heading towards Ocho Rios. You must keep your eyes peeled, as there are many types of vans and small buses operating in the area, some from hotels and private tourism companies.

Climbing Dunn’s River Falls: A Slippery Adventure

I often find myself overestimating the sights and activities I can conquer in a day, leading me to adopt a more spontaneous approach to sightseeing rather than sticking to rigid plans. While this flexibility allows for exciting possibilities, it also exposes me to unexpected challenges along the way.

I read blogs and guidebooks, liberally dropping pins on my Google Maps, with running lists of places that jump out at me. Beyond the obvious allure of breathtaking beaches, the Ocho Rios vicinity teems with waterfalls, swimming holes, and rafting opportunities. Torn between the iconic Dunn’s River Falls and the lesser-explored Konoko Falls, we eventually settled on Dunn’s, which was closer.

However, our journey took a twist when we missed the bus stop to the entrance, forcing us to take the 25 minutes walk back. The sultry walk back via the shoulder of the road, followed by a steep trek uphill only to find throngs of dazed tourists filing off buses didn’t exactly get things off to a wonderful start.

Finally, the lines to the ticket window started to move, and we were on our way to climb the falls. Dunn’s Falls does sell water shoes, though it’s advisable that you bring your own. Stefan wore a worn-in pair of running shoes, while I had on the same $7.99 pair from Pretty Girl that I’d worn to j’ouvert fetes and completed muddy hikes in. I envisioned myself cooling off in the crystal lagoons at the bottom of the falls, but never did it occur to me that I’d actually be climbing them.

Initially, I was killing the climbing part. That was short-lived once I found myself hugging a tree with one arm while unsuccessfully preventing my feet from slipping out beneath me. That, folks, is why they tell you to wear the shoes. Oh, and only walk on the light-colored boulder. The darker ones are covered in slimy algae.

I won’t lie, climbing the rocks is a bit unnerving at first, and you’ll want to join a group or do it with a partner. If you’re not into climbing, there are wooden stairs and observation decks running parallel to the falls. What you might not know is that the foot of the falls opens up to a pristine beach backed by verdant vegetation. This was my reward for climbing to the top of the waterfalls without breaking any bones.

Navigating Tourist Crowds: Lessons Learned in Ocho Rios

I’ve come to expect that some places — like Playa del Carmen and Tulum, like Rome and Paris— will just be overrun by tourists. We traveled onward into Ocho Rios proper, peeping a gargantuan cruise ship docked. We knew what we were in for and looked for the least crowded area to plop down for drinks and lunch.

Down some steps from the street and at the end of a wooden walkway, we eventually did find a quiet corner at Jangalee Seafood Joint and Bar, an open-air restaurant overlooking a diminutive stretch of Fisherman’s Beach. You could tell that our fellow diners were also looking for some respite from the swarms of day trippers and the played-out, gimmicky “on island time” antics just around the bend. We both opted for the shrimp rundown, which was made to order and, of course, took some time. Not a bad problem to have.

If you’re in a rush, don’t use the mini-buses waiting just beyond the Jerk Center, as they won’t leave until they’re completely full. We patiently waited for a while, then realized that it wouldn’t be any time soon and grabbed a coaster back to Drax Hall. The driver skillfully navigated the streets, avoiding potholes and pedestrians, accelerating up to breakneck speeds as he whisked us off to our destination. We passed the original bus, which was very much still sitting there. It was exhilarating, as we were running late due to our good faith effort at waiting for the bus to fill up and leave.

In the end, our journey to Jamaica’s north coast was filled with unexpected twists, but it was an adventure worth experiencing. Navigating the country’s transportation enigma led us to the comfort and convenience of the Knutsford Express bus, which efficiently took us to our destination. Climbing Dunn’s River Falls tested our agility and reminded us of the importance of proper footwear. Despite initial challenges, reaching the top of the falls brought a sense of accomplishment and revealed a breathtaking beach below.

In Ocho Rios, we learned the value of seeking out quieter spots amidst the tourist crowds, enjoying a delicious meal at Jangalee Seafood Joint and Bar. Reflecting on our trip, we realized there were missed opportunities, but that only fuels our desire to return and explore further. As we sped back to Drax Hall on the coaster, excitement filled the air, reminding us of the exhilarating moments that can arise from the unpredictability of travel.

Hindsight is 20/20, but this is one aspect of the trip that I messed up on. Little did I know, Ocho Rios Jerk Center ( (whose jerk I could kick myself for not trying) was just past the hordes of tourists, where we could have had a meal further from the cruise ship dock, then plopped down at Mahogany Beach. We learned this and had a beer there while we planned our route back to the bus station. It was getting late by the time we did sit down for a quick beer, but the dark, open-air restaurant was spacious and full of families eating stacks of chicken and pork. Next time, Ocho Rios, next time.

If you’re in a rush, don’t use the mini-buses waiting just beyond the Jerk Center, as they won’t leave until they’re completely full. We patiently waited for a while, then realized that it wouldn’t be any time soon and grabbed a coaster back to Drax Hall. The driver skillfully navigated the streets, avoiding potholes and pedestrians, accelerating up to breakneck speeds as he whisked us off to our destination. We passed the original bus, which was very much still sitting there. It was exhilarating, as we were running late due to our good faith effort at waiting for the bus to fill up and leave.

In the end, our journey to Jamaica’s north coast was filled with unexpected twists, but it was an adventure worth experiencing. Navigating the country’s transportation enigma led us to the comfort and convenience of the Knutsford Express bus, which efficiently took us to our destination. Climbing Dunn’s River Falls tested our agility and reminded us of the importance of proper footwear. Despite initial challenges, reaching the top of the falls brought a sense of accomplishment and revealed a breathtaking beach below.

In Ocho Rios, we learned the value of seeking out quieter spots amidst the tourist crowds, enjoying a delicious meal at Jangalee Seafood Joint and Bar. Reflecting on our trip, we realized there were missed opportunities, but that only fuels our desire to return and explore further. As we sped back to Drax Hall on the coaster, excitement filled the air, reminding us of the exhilarating moments that can arise from the unpredictability of travel.